NEW DELHI, India: In a country where safe tap water remains out of reach for millions, a growing number of wealthy Indians are embracing bottled water not just as a necessity, but as a marker of health, taste, and status.

At an upscale gourmet store, Avanti Mehta guides customers through a blind tasting of drinks sourced from France, Italy, and India. The glasses are small, the analysis meticulous, but the product is not wine.

Participants compare the minerality, carbonation, and salinity of Evian from the French Alps, Perrier from southern France, San Pellegrino from Italy, and India's Aava, drawn from the foothills of the Aravalli mountains.

"They will all taste different ... you should be choosing a water that can give you some sort of nutritional value," said Mehta, 32, who calls herself India's youngest water sommelier. Her family owns the Aava mineral water brand.

Premium water has become a roughly US$400 million business in India and is expanding rapidly as affluent consumers fold it into a broader wellness lifestyle. A one-litre bottle of premium Indian mineral water typically costs about $1, while imported brands sell for more than $3, around 15 times the price of the cheapest bottled water available locally.

Clean drinking water remains a privilege in India, home to 1.4 billion people. Researchers say 70 percent of groundwater is contaminated, tap water is widely unsafe, and 16 people died in December in Indore city after consuming contaminated municipal water.

For most Indians, bottled water is already a staple. Basic bottles priced at about 20 U.S. cents are widely sold, helping make India a nearly $5 billion bottled water market, forecast to grow 24 percent annually—one of the fastest growth rates globally.

By contrast, bottled water markets in the United States and China, each worth over $30 billion, are driven mainly by convenience and are expected to grow just four percent to five percent a year, according to Euromonitor.

In India, the premium segment is driving momentum. Premium water accounted for 8 percent of the market last year, up from just one percent in 2021, Euromonitor said.

"Distrust of municipal water in some areas has escalated the demand for bottled water. Now, people understand how mineral water has more health benefits. It's expensive, but the category will boom," said Amulya Pandit, a senior Euromonitor consultant.

Among those embracing the trend is New Delhi-based real estate developer B.S. Batra, whose household uses only premium water.

"You feel different, more energetic during the day," said Batra, 49. "I consume mineral water even with whisky at home, and kids use it for their smoothies."

Pepsi, Coca-Cola, and Indian market leader Bisleri dominate the low-cost bottled water market. Many households also rely on purifiers that remove contaminants — and most minerals.

But premium brands are drawing growing interest. Bollywood actor Bhumi Pednekar and her sister have launched Backbay, selling 750-ml cartons of mineral water for $2.2. Conglomerate Tata Consumer Products is expanding its premium portfolio.

Tata, which also partners with Starbucks in India, sells low-cost bottled water but is prioritising premium offerings, CEO Sunil D'Souza said.

"I don't have to push water uphill...I see a long, long, long runway for the business," he said.

Tata's Himalayan mineral water plant, located in the foothills of Himachal Pradesh, draws from a natural underground aquifer. The company plans to introduce a sparkling variant and is scouting for additional natural springs.

Sales of premium waters at three Foodstories gourmet stores tripled in 2025, prompting imports of Saratoga Spring Water from New York at $9 for a 355-ml bottle, which sold out within days, said co-founder Avni Biyani.

Aava's sales reached a record 805 million rupees ($9 million) last year, up 40 percent from 2021. Tata said its combined water business has grown tenfold in six years to $65 million and will expand 30 percent annually.

Imported waters face taxes exceeding 30 percent, making them pricier than Indian brands. Nestlé's Perrier, San Pellegrino, and Danone's Evian retail for over $3.20 per 750 ml bottle.

"When you open your tap, you're not getting an Aava, Evian ... And that is what you're essentially paying for," Mehta said.

Not everyone is convinced. "To be honest, it is kind of expensive," said executive Hoshini Vallabhaneni at a recent tasting. "For everyday use, it will burn a hole in the pocket."